Anyone who knew me when I was younger would surely tell you that I did not have an innate interest in fashion. One of my good friends from high school followed all the trends, knew what brands celebrities were wearing, idolized Carrie Bradshaw, and aspired to a career in fashion merchandizing. I occasionally picked up bits of knowledge from her, but otherwise, I was pretty clueless. I bought most of my clothes from the clearance racks at places like Kohl’s. As a result, I often dressed more like a grandmother than a stylish teen or 20-something. When I interviewed for my first post-college job, I wore a too-tight ivory suit from Target, and one of the interviewers kindly told me afterward that I had neglected to clip the “X” of thread at the back hem of the skirt that held the two pieces of the slit together. When I had to attend business professional events in college, I didn’t own an actual suit, so I paired non-matching black pants with a black blazer in a completely different fabric (although in retrospect, perhaps they were different enough that I actually pulled this off despite not knowing any better).

As you might imagine, transitioning from that fashion history into the world of well-dressed, image-conscious lawyers was not easy. Before starting law school, I left work and headed to a dinner for scholarship recipients wearing a flouncy brown a-line skirt and a floral jacket with a doubled-over strand of pearls, thinking I looked perfectly appropriate and professional. When I arrived, I immediately noticed that everyone else was wearing conservative suits. As in, matching sets in black, gray, or navy. I stood out like a sore thumb. That might not have been such a bad thing, but it made me self-conscious, which interfered with my ability to be fully present in the conversations I had. Individualism can be great, but self-consciousness is not.

I had the good sense to buy a black pinstripe suit from Ann Taylor Loft to wear to any interviews I’d be doing in law school (more than a decade later, I still own the pants from that suit). It was probably the most expensive clothing I’d ever purchased at the time, but I knew it was necessary and, wearing it, I finally felt like I was starting to look the part. After my first year of law school, I interned for a trial court judge and needed enough court-appropriate clothing to get me through three months of work. I headed to TJ Maxx and stocked up on blazers — navy, gray, and brown — that I could mix and match with my existing pants, skirts, and tops. I wasn’t exactly stylish, but I think I managed to blend in well enough.

I acquired a couple of polyester suit sets from Ross for on-campus interviews at the end of that summer. When I got hired by a big firm for the next summer, I knew I needed to expand my work wardrobe. I studied what the women attorneys wore and tried to emulate them in a slightly more conservative way. One night in 2009 during my summer associateship, I was looking for twinsets online (twinsets are a good conservative option, right?) and stumbled upon Corporette. It was the first fashion blog I’d encountered and would serve as my trusted guide for professional attire for years to come (I still check it from time to time).

Fast forward to the present, and I actually find fashion fun. I don’t rush out to buy every new trend, but planning my outfits for the week has become a creative outlet. I’ve learned how to look professional and appropriate and still have a personal sense of style. I know what works well for me and what doesn’t, and I have a lot more options to choose from these days (and significantly more funds to invest in quality wardrobe items).

Here are some of the “rules” I’ve learned for dressing professionally as a woman lawyer. This list is addressed to women because I am a woman and I know what works in my wardrobe. There are similar rules for men, but I’m not the best person to write about them. I put “rules” in quotation marks for several reasons. First, over the past few years I’ve seen a number of articles lamenting the condescending instructions on dress directed at women law students and associates. It’s absolutely true that women’s fashion choices are scrutinized more closely than men’s, in the courtroom and everywhere else. I don’t like that fact, but I also realize that like it or not, image plays a big role in professional success in this field. You will have an easier time commanding respect if you look the part. Second, there really are no hard-and-fast rules when it comes to fashion. You have to feel like yourself in order to do your job well. I often see attorneys who are breaking these rules and looking fabulous and confident doing it. These “rules” are flexible, and you should wear what makes you feel your best.

Now that I’ve said all that, here’s my list of twenty tips on dressing professionally:

1. In the most conservative settings, like a courtroom, wear a jacket and closed-toed shoes in neutral colors. You really must wear a blazer to court. I understand that dress codes vary somewhat by geography and jurisdiction, but the jacket-for-court rule is pretty non-negotiable in my book. Until you’re familiar with a particular court, you should probably just go ahead and wear a full suit. (Because I work for a court, I should note that these opinions are solely my own and not those of my employer or boss.)
2. If you’re a younger person, err on the more conservative end of the style spectrum. Senior attorneys can take more risks and get away with pushing fashion boundaries. A 26-year-old associate does not have the same leeway. Keep it simple and classic.
3. On the other hand, sometimes dressing too conservatively can make you look especially young and inexperienced, like you’re trying too hard. I wouldn’t worry too much about this, but just know that you aren’t required to wear a dark skirt suit with a white or light blue button-down shirt, pantyhose, 2-inch heels, and pearls to every professional event. In most settings outside of the courtroom, that might come across as a little overly formal.
4. You can wear pants to court. While there are lots of stories floating around about crotchety old judges who insist that women attorneys wear skirts and pantyhose in the courtroom, I think that concern is a thing of the past now. If you’re more comfortable in a pantsuit, wear a pantsuit.
5. Combining black and navy is no longer faux pas and can look very chic and fashion-forward when done right. The trick is to make it look intentional rather than like you got dressed in the dark. Make sure the shades are different enough to be clearly identifiable as different colors. If this feels too trendy or intimidating, skip it.
6. A little jewelry will make an outfit seem more put-together. I wear earrings nearly every day. Sometimes I also wear a simple necklace or a ring. I don’t usually wear bracelets because I find they don’t work that well with most of my suit jackets and they annoy me while typing.
7. You should tuck in your shirt most of the time when you’re wearing a blazer. Some shorter blouses are meant to be worn untucked, but generally speaking, tucking your shirt makes you look more put-together and brings structure to an outfit. Your shirt should not extend longer than the hem of your blazer. I’ve seen some women pull off the longer-blouse-under-shorter-blazer look, but it’s tricky and requires that all the items fit you perfectly. If you don’t do it well, you will look sloppy. Your safest bet is to tuck. If you don’t like to tuck, wear a dress instead. 
8. The column of color is an easy outfit formula that is flattering and polished. The idea is to wear one color down the middle of your outfit and a different color jacket or other topper. Think black shirt, black pants or skirt, black shoes, and a gray jacket; or a navy sheath dress and a tan jacket; or a light gray dress and a colorful cardigan.
9. Beware of wearing black pants with a solid-colored blouse and no topper or noticeable accessory. It can make you look like a college intern with very limited professional wardrobe options or a total novice when it comes to workplace fashion. Black pants and a gray or navy top? Fine. Black pants and a bright top with a patterned scarf or statement necklace? Fine. Black pants, a colored top, and a jacket? Fine. Black pants, a red blouse, and no accessories? Add something else to that ensemble to make it look a little more pulled-together.
10. Beware of colored blazers. When done well, they can look powerful and fashionable. Sometimes, however, they end up looking like something an older lady might wear to Sunday brunch. I’m not always great at making this distinction for myself. Ask a friend’s opinion before you buy one. (That last piece is good advice in general.)
11. Belts are quite versatile and can transform an outfit. I used to think that if your pants had visible belt loops, you had to wear a belt. I’ve been convinced otherwise, but I still think a belt can lend structure to an outfit and make it look more polished. I’m a fan of wearing belts over dresses to add waist definition and visual interest.
12. Jewel tones are universally flattering, and solid colors look best on camera. Keep this in mind when you’re having your head shots taken or know you’ll be photographed or filmed.
13. Wearing a watch can make you look more responsible, mature, and punctual. It’s also just a nice accessory to add to your ensemble.
14. Your bra and underwear should not be visible. If you can see either of these things, consider changing your outfit (you may need to go up a size), changing your underwear, or adding a layer underneath your clothes (i.e., a camisole or shapewear). Fashion tape is your friend, especially when it comes to gaping button-down shirts.
15. To reduce the hassle and expense of dry cleaning, read care labels before you buy and seek out tops and bottoms that are hand- or machine-washable. Frequent cleaning will make your clothes wear out faster, so don’t take your suit to the dry cleaner after every wear.
16. It is perfectly fine to buy items second-hand (I do it often), but make sure they don’t look dated. Trends change more slowly in the world of professional attire than in the larger fashion world, but they do change. If you frequently buy thrifted items, be sure you’re monitoring the websites of major retailers like Banana Republic or Ann Taylor so that you know what the current popular looks are.
17. You don’t have to go out and buy a huge work wardrobe. Think quality over quantity. If the items you own are classic and mix-and-matchable, people probably won’t notice that you’re wearing the same things fairly frequently. This is especially true if the individual pieces don’t stand out that much. If you’re aiming to have a smaller capsule wardrobe, you may want to avoid bright colors, loud patterns, or particularly memorable items.
18. A tailor is your friend. Make sure your clothes fit you well. I often have to have pants and skirts hemmed and taken in at the waist and jacket sleeves shortened. These are common alterations that any tailor can do well for about $10-25. My dry cleaner will even do hemming and waist alterations for me. Altering clothes so they fit you well makes a huge difference in how professional and polished you look. It’s worth the investment.
19. Trends tend to catch on more slowly in the legal world, as noted above. Good examples are cropped pants and skinny pants. When these first became popular, I never saw them in court and they would have looked out of place. Now, they’re commonplace in the courtroom. If you’re relatively new to the profession, trying to make a good first impression, or representing a client, you probably don’t want your clothes to stand out. You want the focus to be on you and what you’re saying, not what you’re wearing. For that reason, I’d recommend that you not wear brand-new trends to court. You don’t want to look dated, but you also don’t want to take too many fashion risks in this setting. There’s a reason Ann Taylor clothes have a reputation for being boring.
20. Pay attention to grooming and wear-and-tear. People notice details. If your shoes are badly scuffed, get new ones. If your jacket’s hems are frayed, replace it. Keep your nails and hair trimmed and neat. This is basic stuff, but it matters.

What did I miss? Tell us your best tips in the comments. 

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